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 Caribbean dishes reflect
distinctive island flair
By BARBARA ALBRIGHT
AP — The Caribbean is a garland of 7,000 islands stretching 2,600 miles between Florida and Venezuela. The islands are a cultural melting pot, a trait their cuisine vividly reflects.
The Ameri-Indians were living there when Columbus and the Spaniards arrived in 1492. The English, Portuguese, French, Dutch, Danish and Swedish who came later brought slaves from Africa and indentured servants from India and China. This ethnic diversity, coupled with the lush tropical vegetation of the islands and bountiful seafood from the waters surrounding them, have produced a cuisine with a style all its own. Chilies of all varieties and intensities and the many other spices that grow on the islands add complex layers of flavor.
"Some of the adjectives used to describe this beautiful region are the same words I'd use to explain the cuisine," Donna Shields says in her book, "Caribbean Light" (Doubleday, $25.95 hardcover). She calls it "a medley of brilliant, bright colors, with dramatic, bold flavors, and a lush, tropical presentation.
"There is nothing subtle about Caribbean cuisine. It steps right up to the plate, and lets you know what it's all about. The cooking techniques are down-home, a melting pot. This is food with a big personality." Caribbean cuisine is based on seafood and foods that are high in carbohydrates and fiber. Meat, which is pricey in the Caribbean, is used more as a flavoring accent, though there are quite a few Cuban recipes which use pork.
Some Caribbean dishes are found throughout the islands; others are specific to one island or culture. The initial impression the cuisine makes is that of a lighter way of eating, with generous use of fruits, vegetables and fish. But there are some deep-fried foods such as tostones (fried plantains) and Jamaican Stamp and Go (fried codfish cakes).
A selection of recipes follows, to help evoke a Caribbean state of mind, just in time for the summer's popular Abaco fishing tournaments in the Bahamas. "Mojo" is a basic Cuban cooking condiment. In her book, Shields uses it as a marinade for Cuban Roast Pork. She also recommends it as an all-purpose marinade and as "a drizzle-on condiment" for boiled yucca, steamed vegetables and mashed or boiled potatoes. It is also a great alternative to sour cream on baked potatoes.
Mojo recipes usually call for more oil than you will find in the following variation. Shields has compensated for the difference in volume by adding white wine and water.
The pork roast marinates for two days and would be an ideal no-hassle main course for guests. Serve with Rice with Green Pigeon Peas, or Classic Pink Beans and Rice, for additional Caribbean flair. Rice and beans are eaten throughout the islands, prepared in many ways.
Another basic for many Cuban, Puerto Rican and other Hispanic recipes is the condiment Sofrito. There are many variations, but it must include garlic, onion and green bell peppers. It can also include tomatoes, ham, herbs and spices.
Shields' recipe for Black Bean and Olive Soup uses an especially flavorful Sofrito that includes chopped Spanish salad olives. It's a recipe that tastes even better after it sits for a while.
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Place the pork loin in a shallow, nonreactive, ovenproof roasting pan. Add the Garlic Mojo, turning the meat to coat it on all sides, and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 48 hours, turning it every 6 to 8 hours. You will see the outside of the meat start to lose its color and turn slightly brown. That's Ok — it's an indication that the acid is breaking down the muscle fibers.
Preheat the oven to 350 F. Drain and reserve the marinade. Place the meat back in the pan and roast it for 35 to 40 minutes, until the center is still slightly pink, to an internal temperature of 160 F. Remove the pan from the oven and set the meat on a plate to rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Add the reserved marinade to the roasting pan and, on the stove top, heat whatever is left in the roasting pan to a boil for 1 minute. Pour over the sliced meat.
Makes 6 servings.
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Nutrition facts per serving:@ 210 cal., 11 g fat, 65 mg chol., 130 mg sodium |
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In a small saucepan, over low heat, warm the olive oil for 3 minutes. In a small bowl, combine the remaining ingredients, then stir them into the warm oil, and heat for another 2 minutes. Cool slightly before using. Store in a clean glass jar or bottle with a lid, and refrigerate. This keeps only 1 or 2 days in the refrigerator.
Makes 1 cup |
